I made a support for the calorifier to bolt into the engine bay.
The support and tank installed.
All plumbed in, Eber fitted and being tested29 October 2009
04 October 2009
The tiller has landed!
The old post was cut & ground off, the hole enlarged and some bolt holes drilled for the top bearing. The lower bearing sticks out on a bracket.
Fastened between the two bearings is the clamp arm pictured in a my last blog post.
Other things done today include the mounting points for the calorifier support being drilled (my dad did this and had a pig of a time drilling through the C section, it must have been hardened or something!), the Stern Drive was filled with oil and the morse cable connected.
The old post was cut & ground off, the hole enlarged and some bolt holes drilled for the top bearing. The lower bearing sticks out on a bracket.Fastened between the two bearings is the clamp arm pictured in a my last blog post.
Other things done today include the mounting points for the calorifier support being drilled (my dad did this and had a pig of a time drilling through the C section, it must have been hardened or something!), the Stern Drive was filled with oil and the morse cable connected.
28 September 2009
20 September 2009
Work from today, the steering mounts were welded into the guttering and the base bearings attached to the centre bar that runs around the boat.
Now it all becomes clear! The pulley bracket still needs a little bit of fettling. The top pulley post is not yet on. The pink blob appears to be mu finger :|
Now it all becomes clear! The pulley bracket still needs a little bit of fettling. The top pulley post is not yet on. The pink blob appears to be mu finger :|19 September 2009
Well, it's abeen a long time since I last posted here, but that doesn't mean I've been doing nothing!
One thing I did early on, which I don't have any pictures of is to paint the deckboards black. I use a coat of primer, then a coat of International black floor paint with sand sieved onto it. The sand had been baked before application to remove moisture. Sprinkle to excess and then when the paint has dried, tip the rest off. then a further two coats of paint on top. These look really good and have stood up well throught the summer.
When I bought the replacement engine many months bac, it came with a set of proper mounts. I decided taht I should be using these rather than the crummy mountings I had at the time. This would require I created a new 'drop in' engine frame / oil pan.
The old bearers were completely removed. This involved some grinding very close to the baseplate!
Re-mounting the engine would involve moving it slightly to the right for better propshaft alighment. This meant the exhaust hole had to be filled in and recut about 2 inches to the right!
Initially I liked the idea of having a yellow engine bay, this initial test sploge told me that it was going to be a very bad idea.
I ended up going for a smokey blue with red bearers.
The 'drop in' engine frame was installed...
...along with the engine.
The underside of the guttering was paited yellow, to avoid hitting your head on it, plus I also had plenty of yellow spare :o)
I made up some trellis type cable tidies out of 5mm round bar to attach the cables to. This would keep the cables out of risk for the BSS and would therefore not require me to install conduit.
I found a better quality Stern Drive (Enfield 130) on eBay and decided to replace the current one with it. I had to borrow a pair of waders to remove the existing one.
Because the Stern Drive expects a transom with a greater angle, a wedge chock must be used. The old one was wooden which had rotted, I made a new one out of sheet metal. This wasn't that easy as the back of the boat has a slight curve to it and there were 8 tubes for 8 bolts to get in the right place! In the end it all worked beautifully, I was incredibly chuffed!
Here's the replacement Stern Drive on. I have taken it apart, stripped the paint back and resprayed and give it a general service. I only dropped one machine screw whilst fitting it!
I installed a Dometic VacuFlush VT2500, the waste pipe runs the length of the boat...
...through the rear bulkhead into the engine bay, where it meets the removable cassette and vacuum pump. Also note the red bearers that have been installed to create a platform at the front of the engine bay.
The batteries will live on that platform (not yet lashed down for the BSS). Here, some of the wiring is installed using double-sided velcro tape. The battery master switches are located underneath the deck infront of the cabin door.
All the 12v wiring comes back to a distribution and fuse panel, a panel for each side of the boat (with a couple of temporary take-offs). One of the 240v cables has not yet been pulled through and the whole 240v system is yet to be installed.
The wiring for the engine snakes around under the guttering, dare I say, beautifuly :o)
A change of plan, to put the oven at eye level rather than knee level meant that I had to move a pair of 12v/240v sockets. One of the red/black pairs will be run accross to the over for ignition/light/fan/whatever-it-uses.
Because the Stern Drive uses a wire push/pull system, I needed a way of getting the wires through the deck but keeping the deck watertight. I came up with this system where a 'gutter cup' is welded onto the existing guttering which allows the rain to drain, a tube placed over the tube that sticks out of the gutter cup causes any rain to drip into the guttering. Each tube (top & bottom, only bottom shown here) has a pulley (not shown) that the wire goes around, the wire goes through the middle of the tubes. I'm sure once it's fitted, all will become obvious!
The cabin ceiling came a little close to completion with the installation of lights.
One thing I did early on, which I don't have any pictures of is to paint the deckboards black. I use a coat of primer, then a coat of International black floor paint with sand sieved onto it. The sand had been baked before application to remove moisture. Sprinkle to excess and then when the paint has dried, tip the rest off. then a further two coats of paint on top. These look really good and have stood up well throught the summer.
When I bought the replacement engine many months bac, it came with a set of proper mounts. I decided taht I should be using these rather than the crummy mountings I had at the time. This would require I created a new 'drop in' engine frame / oil pan.
The old bearers were completely removed. This involved some grinding very close to the baseplate!
Re-mounting the engine would involve moving it slightly to the right for better propshaft alighment. This meant the exhaust hole had to be filled in and recut about 2 inches to the right!
Initially I liked the idea of having a yellow engine bay, this initial test sploge told me that it was going to be a very bad idea.
I ended up going for a smokey blue with red bearers.
The 'drop in' engine frame was installed...
...along with the engine.
The underside of the guttering was paited yellow, to avoid hitting your head on it, plus I also had plenty of yellow spare :o)
I made up some trellis type cable tidies out of 5mm round bar to attach the cables to. This would keep the cables out of risk for the BSS and would therefore not require me to install conduit.
I found a better quality Stern Drive (Enfield 130) on eBay and decided to replace the current one with it. I had to borrow a pair of waders to remove the existing one.
Because the Stern Drive expects a transom with a greater angle, a wedge chock must be used. The old one was wooden which had rotted, I made a new one out of sheet metal. This wasn't that easy as the back of the boat has a slight curve to it and there were 8 tubes for 8 bolts to get in the right place! In the end it all worked beautifully, I was incredibly chuffed!
Here's the replacement Stern Drive on. I have taken it apart, stripped the paint back and resprayed and give it a general service. I only dropped one machine screw whilst fitting it!
I installed a Dometic VacuFlush VT2500, the waste pipe runs the length of the boat...
...through the rear bulkhead into the engine bay, where it meets the removable cassette and vacuum pump. Also note the red bearers that have been installed to create a platform at the front of the engine bay.
The batteries will live on that platform (not yet lashed down for the BSS). Here, some of the wiring is installed using double-sided velcro tape. The battery master switches are located underneath the deck infront of the cabin door.
All the 12v wiring comes back to a distribution and fuse panel, a panel for each side of the boat (with a couple of temporary take-offs). One of the 240v cables has not yet been pulled through and the whole 240v system is yet to be installed.
The wiring for the engine snakes around under the guttering, dare I say, beautifuly :o)
A change of plan, to put the oven at eye level rather than knee level meant that I had to move a pair of 12v/240v sockets. One of the red/black pairs will be run accross to the over for ignition/light/fan/whatever-it-uses.
Because the Stern Drive uses a wire push/pull system, I needed a way of getting the wires through the deck but keeping the deck watertight. I came up with this system where a 'gutter cup' is welded onto the existing guttering which allows the rain to drain, a tube placed over the tube that sticks out of the gutter cup causes any rain to drip into the guttering. Each tube (top & bottom, only bottom shown here) has a pulley (not shown) that the wire goes around, the wire goes through the middle of the tubes. I'm sure once it's fitted, all will become obvious!
The cabin ceiling came a little close to completion with the installation of lights.15 March 2009
Saturday I did a spot of fillering over the welds on the decking gutter and finished cutting the deckboards to size.
Sunday I decided that using panel pins on the ceiling wasn't working so I removed it all and put it back on with small screws sunk in (to be filled over).
Decking cut
Need to arrange a way of getting the morse control through the deck without rain being able to enter.
Screwed up the ceiling
Sunday I decided that using panel pins on the ceiling wasn't working so I removed it all and put it back on with small screws sunk in (to be filled over).
Decking cut
Need to arrange a way of getting the morse control through the deck without rain being able to enter.
Screwed up the ceiling13 March 2009
06 March 2009
Below are a couple of pictures from last weekend and today, Friday.
A picture from last weekend, the welding is completed on the guttering (well, the back part has been completed since I took the photo). Need to sort out some deck boards and bilge paint.
Today, battens were put up accross the ceiling and the first T&GV board is up!
A picture from last weekend, the welding is completed on the guttering (well, the back part has been completed since I took the photo). Need to sort out some deck boards and bilge paint.
Today, battens were put up accross the ceiling and the first T&GV board is up!04 March 2009
These are some pics taken over the last few weeks, sorry Dobson for not updating sooner :o(
Widened kitchen floor, at the top you see the cabin floor, the bottom is the kitchen floor, a couple more inches either side!
Knocked up a simple couple of wooden rails over the sink to rain off the washing up. Note the bacon.
Instead of routing the cables under the cabin floor, they're now going through the bulkhead into the engine bay.
This involves moving a 240v mains socket to the left a bit, you can see where the conduit used to drop down below the floor.
The same thing on the other side.
Holes made (eventually), lined and conduit poked through.
Poking out in the engine bay.
All holes foamed back up!
An important milestone was reached, the first bacon butty.
With ketchup.
The latest project is a gutter around the back deck (preparing for summer, ho ho ho!).
Hiding the terrible welds with filler. Is there nothing filler can't hide?
Finally for this blog, a preview of the internal guttering, for run-off from the desk boards.
Widened kitchen floor, at the top you see the cabin floor, the bottom is the kitchen floor, a couple more inches either side!
Knocked up a simple couple of wooden rails over the sink to rain off the washing up. Note the bacon.
Instead of routing the cables under the cabin floor, they're now going through the bulkhead into the engine bay.
This involves moving a 240v mains socket to the left a bit, you can see where the conduit used to drop down below the floor.
The same thing on the other side.
Holes made (eventually), lined and conduit poked through.
Poking out in the engine bay.
All holes foamed back up!
An important milestone was reached, the first bacon butty.
With ketchup.
The latest project is a gutter around the back deck (preparing for summer, ho ho ho!).
Hiding the terrible welds with filler. Is there nothing filler can't hide?
Finally for this blog, a preview of the internal guttering, for run-off from the desk boards. 31 January 2009
I've been widening the kitchen floor area toady, not much to look at or photograph unfortunately.
Stay with me on this description, it's wordy...
The areas either side of the gangway in the kitchen 'zone' were 600mm deep, adding the slope of the walls, it meant that the worktop (also 600mm deep) , when placed, would not overhang the floor as is normal (you know, in the kitchen you can get your feet under the worktop a small amount).
To get around this I've made the floor bigger by 5 inches (2.5in either side, sorry to mix imperial and metric). This will allow for a 10mm or so overhang, all that's left is to get a bigger bit of flooring and to cut down the floor of the cupboard bases to fit.
Stay with me on this description, it's wordy...
The areas either side of the gangway in the kitchen 'zone' were 600mm deep, adding the slope of the walls, it meant that the worktop (also 600mm deep) , when placed, would not overhang the floor as is normal (you know, in the kitchen you can get your feet under the worktop a small amount).
To get around this I've made the floor bigger by 5 inches (2.5in either side, sorry to mix imperial and metric). This will allow for a 10mm or so overhang, all that's left is to get a bigger bit of flooring and to cut down the floor of the cupboard bases to fit.
30 January 2009
Friday again, plumbing today.
The tap and waste are fitted to the sink.
Waste pipe is installed and the hot/cold feeds are connected.
The Jabsco Par Max 2.9 temporarily installed, you can see the waste doesn't exit directly behind the sink (as this area will be tiled so un-get-at-able if it starts leaking), instead it runs back into the saloon under the bed and then out (right of picture) next to the shower waste.
The tap and waste are fitted to the sink.
Waste pipe is installed and the hot/cold feeds are connected.
The Jabsco Par Max 2.9 temporarily installed, you can see the waste doesn't exit directly behind the sink (as this area will be tiled so un-get-at-able if it starts leaking), instead it runs back into the saloon under the bed and then out (right of picture) next to the shower waste.
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